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What is Hair Porosity and Why It Matters

There are a few important characteristics that hairstylists use when assessing someone’s hair type. Texture, density, elasticity, color, formation, and porosity to name a few.

But what exactly is porosity? How does it affect hair health and the products we choose? Let’s dive in and learn more.

Porosity, by definition, is the quality or degree of having minute spaces or holes through which liquid or air may pass. Or in simpler terms, being full of tiny holes.

 

How does porosity apply to hair?

Porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb and hold moisture.

The structure of a single strand of hair is made up of three layers:
* The cuticle
* The cortex
* The medulla
The hair cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair strand. This is the layer that determines porosity and acts as the barrier between the inner layers of a strand of hair and everything your hair comes into contact with.

 

A graphic defining hiar porosity and showing the 3 different types of hair porosity, low, medium and high.

 

Let’s take a deeper look. Hair porosity is determined by how open or closed the hair cuticles are. Hair cuticles are the scales that cover the external layer of the hair’s surface. These little scales determine how much moisture can penetrate the hair shaft. Many factors determine how open or closed these scales are: genetics; hair damage; using hot tools too frequently; and harsh chemical treatments such as bleach, relaxers, and perms. Environmental factors such as sun overexposure, chlorine damage, or pH imbalance can also come into play.

 

3 Types of Hair Porosity

When it comes to hair porosity, there are 3 types. Low porosity, medium porosity, or high porosity. Here are the cuticle structures and hair characteristics of the 3 types of porosity:

Low Porosity:
– Very tight cuticle structure – retains moisture.
– Cuticle is shut so tightly that moisture cannot be absorbed – therefore water and product beads up on the hair.
– More common with straight hair that appears shiny even with no product applied.
– Hair may look weighed down because products applied to low-porosity hair will just sit on the hair strands without penetrating.
– Hair takes a long time to air dry.
– Frizzy hair due to moisture never being absorbed.
– Chemical treatments such as coloring and perms/straighteners are less effective and protein treatments will leave the hair feeling stiff.
– Virgin hair(hair that has never been chemically altered, colored, or exposed to environmental damage) can have low porosity.

Medium porosity: (most ideal/normal)
– Looser cuticle structure. Moisture can reach into the hair shaft.
– Normal or medium porosity hair absorbs and retains water well.
– Medium porosity hair is also receptive to chemical treatments such as bleaches, colorants, and relaxers, and the results are usually predictable.
– Moisture is able to penetrate but doesn’t easily escape the hair.
– Hair shines naturally.
– Hair is strong and doesn’t break easily.

High Porosity:
– Very open hair cuticle. Moisture can penetrate into the hair shaft but flows out quickly.
– Hair appears dry. Water just flows in and right back out. Hair is quick to soak up and absorb products such as oils and conditioners but cannot absorb it.
– Those with textured hair, hair that is naturally wavy, curly, or coily, are more likely to have more porous hair than individuals with straight hair. This is because it’s difficult for the oil produced on the scalp to make its way to hydrate the hair ends.
– Hair may be frizzy and dull due to moisture not being retained in the hair.
– Hair dries very quickly, even without using a hairdryer, and is prone to breakage.
– Hair may be damaged from coloring, over-processing, too much heat, or certain products that may have damaged the cuticle. This is called Grade 5 High Porosity. Hair with this porosity is too compromised to save because there is no hair structure left. Because there is no cuticle left on the hair strands, you only see the inner part of the hair, the medulla layer. The hair will feel gummy to the touch and break whenever you run a comb or your fingers through it. The hair is too damaged and most times, must be cut.

 

How to Test Your Hair Porosity

In addition to identifying your hair’s porosity from the characteristics above, there are a few ways to test the porosity.

Hair porosity float test:
Fill a glass half full of room temperature water. Grab a product-free, clean strand of your hair and place it on top of the water.
If your hair sinks to the bottom, it has high porosity. If it floats in the middle, it has medium porosity. If it sits on top of the water, it has low porosity.

A graphic illustrating how to test your hair porosity

 

Hair Porosity Spray test:
Spray water on clean dry hair.
High porosity hair will adsorb the water more quickly than lower porosity hair, which would instead have visible beads of water and a longer dry time.

 

Hair Porosity and Product Use

Now that you know your hair’s porosity, how can you care for your hair, and what products should be used and avoided?

 

Low Porosity products to use & tips:

– A steam treatment to open the cuticle and a hydrating shampoo such as Citrus Lavender or Cherry Almond Shampoo.  Add a clarifying shampoo to your routine once a week, such as Rosemary Mint Vanilla Shampoo. This will detox the hair and wash away product buildup.
– A deep conditioner such as Plaine Products Deep Conditioner. Use it as a hair mask by applying conditioner, then a shower cap, and letting it sit for 20 minutes. This will retain heat from the scalp which will open up the hair cuticles and allow the deep conditioner to penetrate into the hair.

Products to avoid:
Steer clear of oils and other products made to seal the cuticle. Nothing that will leave product buildup or residue on the hair.
Avoid protein-rich products. Low porosity hair is sensitive to protein and added protein can cause the hair to become stiff and fragile.

 

Medium Porosity products to use & tips:

– This is the most ideal hair porosity and many products are safe to use on this hair type.
– Any of Plaine Products Shampoos and Conditioners as they are aloe-based and paraben, sulfate, and toxin-free.
– Leave-in treatments are beneficial such as Hair Repair and medium-weight products such as Styling Gel or Sea Salt Spray.

Products to avoid:
Products containing monohydroxy alcohol which are drying, silicons which coat the hair and parabens and sulfates which are irritating.

 

High Porosity products to use & tips:

– The goal is to increase the ability of the hair to retain moisture.
– Wash only once a week if possible. Avoid hot water and use lukewarm instead. End with a cold rinse to close the hair cuticle.
– Try to avoid heat styling altogether. If you need to blow-dry or use hot tools, apply a heat protectant such as Hair Repair or Beauty Oil and use on the lowest heat setting.
– Handle your hair with care. Squeeze hair dry using a soft cotton t-shirt instead of roughening with a towel. Use a detangler such as Hair Repair and a wide-tooth comb to gently detangle from the end of the hair length and working your way up.
– Sleep on a silk pillowcase to prevent friction and frizz.
– Get regular trims. High porosity hair is prone to split ends and breakage. Keeping your ends healthy stimulates new hair growth.
– Protein-based products.
– Products that can help heal a damaged cuticle such as Deep Conditioner and Beauty Oil.

Products to avoid:
One must be very careful when coloring or getting chemical service. Consult a professional hairstylist to help maintain the integrity and health of your hair. Avoid anything too drying such as products containing Sulfates, parabens, silicones, and sodium laureth sulfates as these pull natural oils from your hair. Sea salt sprays, hair sprays, and products containing monohydroxy alcohol can be drying. Remember, if you have level 5 High Porosity hair, where the cuticle is gone, the only way to treat this damaged hair is to cut it.

 

This blog post was contributed by our very own resident hairstylist and Head of Salon Sales, Krysia McDonald. Krysia answers all of your burning hair questions on our “Ask A Hair Stylist” page.

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